Words from Africa
Trip to Zambia - March 28 to April 7, 2007
Julie-Anne Savarit-Cosenza
Wednesday 28th March
Have you ever arrived into the Las Vegas airport at night? A few years ago, I went to Vegas for a soccer tournament and arrived around 10 p.m. As you start the descent over the desert, everything is pitch black. Then, all of a sudden, there is this extreme burst of light. Your body knows that it is nighttime, but the lights of Vegas make you think otherwise. It appears to be broad daylight as the plane lands into the airport. Sorry if I have you a little confused…what does Las Vegas have to do with Zambia, right? This trip to Zambia was my first time flying in at night. As I pass over rural Zambia, it is expected that there would be no lights, total darkness. The stars glitter amazingly in the distance. But I thought back to my plane ride into Las Vegas and expected that, at some point, the lights would turn on. But they never really did. The suburbs of Lusaka have a little glow. I could not believe it. Almost sheer darkness…but stunning nonetheless. The simplicity of this country continues to amaze me. We land, and as usual take stairs off the plane and walk to the airport. As we exit customs, Kasanda and Langy, my two best friends, are here to greet me and my flat mate from Cape Town. Big hugs of course…even though I saw them only two months ago, I missed them extremely. My flat mate and I are tired after a long day. That morning I had sprinted up the mountain to the University of Cape Town's campus to hand in a paper and then rushed to get home in time to go to the airport. We are worn out from the day of traveling. Once we reach home, the chameleon in the hallway, spiders on the walls, and mosquitoes buzzing around do not even faze me… I am ready for bed.
Thursday 29th March
There is no time to rest and first thing in the morning, it's off to Kafue. I take the minibus for the first time by myself into town (Kasanda had errands to run and met us there). I am glad that I have taken this minibus so many times, the route is easy and we find Kasanda without any problem. The minibus to Kafue seems to take forever…I am so anxious to see the children and the older students. As we arrive at the centre, I am of course greeted with long missed smiles. Instant warmth rushes through my body. But I cannot stay too long with the children since I have an appointment to visit a building. The one that we are renting to house the Amos Youth Centre is getting too small and is not secure enough for us to set up the computers. I am here to ascertain if this new building would better accommodate our needs. One of my biggest concerns is that this new location is 5 kilometers from the current Centre. We should try to stay in the same neighborhood, one of Kafue's poorest, and serve the children there. After an amazing first day, we head back to Lusaka. Again I am reminded that situations that should normally take half an hour take several hours in Zambia. We have to wait to get the rental car…and by wait, I mean wait for three hours in a parking lot. After the tiring day, it is time for bed.
Friday 30th March
Friday morning marks another early start to Kafue. One by one, my old friends trickle into the centre. Most of them have end of term exams next week and are busy studying. So when they find a minute to take a break, they come and visit me. The word has spread that I am back. We go to visit the orphanage that is right across the dirt road from the centre. It is hidden behind tall grass. My friend Agnes takes us on the "safari" trail. Finally the tall grass ends and four houses appear in front of us. One hundred and eight children stay here. With children bunked six to eight to a room, the women in charge of the orphanage are doing their best. They have trouble feeding the children and consistently sending them all to school. Of course greeted with beautiful smiles, six-year-old Benjamin takes me by the hand to show me the orphanage. Like the visit to Mother Teresa's orphanage last time, I realize that these kids crave the simplest forms of affection. I play football with them with a ball made out of plastic bags. We take pictures and play on an old slide. These kids are amazing. Laughing nonstop, we share a wonderful moment. It breaks my heart to leave them. AEP must get involved with this orphanage and help these children. It is off to the airport now, to pick up some friends from Cape Town. They are going to Livingston to see the Victoria Falls. After the airport, we go to an ATM so that my friends can get some Kwatcha, the Zambian currency. At this ATM, during the day, every fourth or fifth person who tries to withdraw money will find the machine stuck. It takes about five minutes to fix…frustrating, to say the least. I forgot about this regular problem and of course one of my friends' cards gets stuck…there is no emergency support system to fix the machine and we have to wait until 10 AM the next morning to retrieve the card…Zambia is slow. I love it.
Saturday 31st March
Once we recover the card my friends leave for Livingston. Saturday is relaxing and I spend the afternoon with Kasanda and Langy running a few errands in town. I go to bed early.
Sunday 1st April
Naturally, Sunday is a typical Zambian Sunday. We hang out and relax. The mosquitoes are not nearly as bad as during my last trip and I find myself sleeping in peace this time around. They are biting me, but maybe I am just used to it by now.
Monday 2nd April
It's back to work Monday morning. Before heading to Kafue, we make photocopies of the application forms for the AEP School Sponsorships in Kabulonga. Then Kasanda, Langy, and I are on our way to Kafue. In order for AEP to get a better idea of the needs for school tuition sponsorship in the community, we decided that students could apply for a sponsorship for next school year during two days, today and tomorrow. Once we reach the centre, students are waiting outside ready to start the application process. It is exciting to see how the word has spread about our centre. I also spend time talking to Nahmo, Spender and a new friend, John. After I question them about their term at school, they tell me about their aspirations for the centre. Nahmo is seeking sponsorship for the drama group based at the centre. He decides that the group will perform for me on Friday afternoon. John wants to start a program over their month long vacation. During this time, students will study in the centre in the morning and play sports or do an activity in the afternoon. These guys never stop inspiring me. Later in the afternoon, the "Women on the Move" have a special meeting for me. They make me fritters and Mukoyo drink. The fritters are excellent, but I have trouble swallowing the drink. It tastes like a mix of coffee and lime with chunks of something in it. I do my best. They also show me the clothes that they hand sew and sell at the market. In addition, they display memory books, which they are each writing to recount their family history. These women are incredible, with the little resources that they have they are doing the best they can to provide for their community. Without question, their selfless acts deserve to be rewarded.
Tuesday 3rd April
The trip to Kafue is a huge ordeal. Since we have rented a nine-seat minibus, all the boys in my "family" come along for the ride and to work at the centre. My little "brother" Popo (Amos' younger son), "cousins" John and Swala, Kasanda, Langy and I all pile in. It is still early in the morning. After a "quick," by Zambian standards, breakfast we are off. It never ceases to amaze me, every time I take the road to Kafue, I discover something new…a new village in the bushes or a tree that I did not see before, the landscape seems ever changing. I have taken this road what seems like thousands of times now, but I am never bored with the scenery. Each day brings me a new surprise that I truly live for…a simple smile, or a mud hut, or a group of school children running… It is a good thing that all the boys came to help me. Students are lining up outside the centre to fill out the application. John and Swala are in charge of numbering and organizing the applications, Popo is my clown in residence, who makes sure smiles come out in the pictures that I am taking. Kasanda, Langy, Spender and John are in charge of making sure all questions are answered concerning the application. My boys are tired after a hectic morning and Langy takes them home. Kasanda and I stay behind to do the afternoon shift. I am grateful that fewer students come. But there are more, I am told, coming since some have had exams all day today. I have lunch with Kasanda, Dorcas and Agnes, and we discuss the future of the centre. Everyone is excited about what the simple building is turning into, the lives it is changing and will continue to change.
Wednesday 4th April
Today is my "brother" Kapota's (Amos' older son) eighteenth birthday. In Zambia, this is one of the biggest birthdays, for it marks the entry into adulthood. We drop Kapota off at school on our way to Kafue. The day will be short there because I want to spend the day with Kapota. Popo also comes to Kafue with us. Even at the young age of 11, it means so much to him to see his father's name on the outside of the centre. He enjoys coming and doing work. A few students fill out applications and then we are back on our way to Lusaka. As part of my birthday present to Kapota, I pay for him to get cornrows in his hair. We then go home to the plot for a traditional birthday dinner and cake. In Zambia, whoever's birthday it is, is supposed to feed and be fed cake (using hands) by his or her immediate family. Kapota tells me, "Sister, come here," grabs my arm to pull me closer to partake in this customary event. A tear comes to my eye.
Thursday 5th April
Thursday is another typical day in Kafue. We finish up all of the applications. We also have a board meeting for the administration of the Centre.
Friday 6th April
It is Good Friday and I go to church with my "Uncle" Kenneth in the morning. The service is beautiful as always. The choir's voices echo magnificently through the simple church. The whole service is in Bemba, so I can only catch a few words here and there. I sing along to Amazing Grace and follow the story of Jesus's crucifixion. Then, all of a sudden I hear my name being called, as I am to stand up to be properly greeted as a visitor. I blush and stare at my "uncle" who of course made my presence known to the priest. After church, I organize the last trip to Kafue before heading back to Cape Town the next morning. Instead of it being just Kasanda, Langy, Kapota and I, the trip turns into a "family" event. Fifteen of Amos' brothers, sisters, nephews, nieces, and closest friends want to come along. Everyone is so excited to be at the centre, which is packed with students, children, and members of "Women on the Move". I have never seen so many people in the centre. In that one instant when I walked through the front door, surrounded by my "family" and all of the people that this centre is touching, has made all of the hard work, late nights, long minibus rides…the list could go on…worth it. Nahmo has organized the drama group and they sing magnificently, dance, and perform HIV/AIDS awareness skits for us. Everyone laughs uncontrollably at the jokes and listen attentively while "Uncle" Kenneth speaks to the youth about the importance of HIV/AIDS awareness in their community. The afternoon has been one of my best in Zambia. My love for this place has multiplied ten fold. I say my goodbyes and of course have tears in my eyes. I cannot wait until June. My last night in Lusaka is just like all the others - spent into the early morning hours with "family" and friends.
Saturday 7th April
Tired as can be, I make my way to my 7:30 AM flight. We take off and I, of course, start crying. I am so tired that I fall asleep, eyes wet.
Julie-Anne Savarit-Cosenza
Wednesday 28th March
Have you ever arrived into the Las Vegas airport at night? A few years ago, I went to Vegas for a soccer tournament and arrived around 10 p.m. As you start the descent over the desert, everything is pitch black. Then, all of a sudden, there is this extreme burst of light. Your body knows that it is nighttime, but the lights of Vegas make you think otherwise. It appears to be broad daylight as the plane lands into the airport. Sorry if I have you a little confused…what does Las Vegas have to do with Zambia, right? This trip to Zambia was my first time flying in at night. As I pass over rural Zambia, it is expected that there would be no lights, total darkness. The stars glitter amazingly in the distance. But I thought back to my plane ride into Las Vegas and expected that, at some point, the lights would turn on. But they never really did. The suburbs of Lusaka have a little glow. I could not believe it. Almost sheer darkness…but stunning nonetheless. The simplicity of this country continues to amaze me. We land, and as usual take stairs off the plane and walk to the airport. As we exit customs, Kasanda and Langy, my two best friends, are here to greet me and my flat mate from Cape Town. Big hugs of course…even though I saw them only two months ago, I missed them extremely. My flat mate and I are tired after a long day. That morning I had sprinted up the mountain to the University of Cape Town's campus to hand in a paper and then rushed to get home in time to go to the airport. We are worn out from the day of traveling. Once we reach home, the chameleon in the hallway, spiders on the walls, and mosquitoes buzzing around do not even faze me… I am ready for bed.
Thursday 29th March
There is no time to rest and first thing in the morning, it's off to Kafue. I take the minibus for the first time by myself into town (Kasanda had errands to run and met us there). I am glad that I have taken this minibus so many times, the route is easy and we find Kasanda without any problem. The minibus to Kafue seems to take forever…I am so anxious to see the children and the older students. As we arrive at the centre, I am of course greeted with long missed smiles. Instant warmth rushes through my body. But I cannot stay too long with the children since I have an appointment to visit a building. The one that we are renting to house the Amos Youth Centre is getting too small and is not secure enough for us to set up the computers. I am here to ascertain if this new building would better accommodate our needs. One of my biggest concerns is that this new location is 5 kilometers from the current Centre. We should try to stay in the same neighborhood, one of Kafue's poorest, and serve the children there. After an amazing first day, we head back to Lusaka. Again I am reminded that situations that should normally take half an hour take several hours in Zambia. We have to wait to get the rental car…and by wait, I mean wait for three hours in a parking lot. After the tiring day, it is time for bed.
Friday 30th March
Friday morning marks another early start to Kafue. One by one, my old friends trickle into the centre. Most of them have end of term exams next week and are busy studying. So when they find a minute to take a break, they come and visit me. The word has spread that I am back. We go to visit the orphanage that is right across the dirt road from the centre. It is hidden behind tall grass. My friend Agnes takes us on the "safari" trail. Finally the tall grass ends and four houses appear in front of us. One hundred and eight children stay here. With children bunked six to eight to a room, the women in charge of the orphanage are doing their best. They have trouble feeding the children and consistently sending them all to school. Of course greeted with beautiful smiles, six-year-old Benjamin takes me by the hand to show me the orphanage. Like the visit to Mother Teresa's orphanage last time, I realize that these kids crave the simplest forms of affection. I play football with them with a ball made out of plastic bags. We take pictures and play on an old slide. These kids are amazing. Laughing nonstop, we share a wonderful moment. It breaks my heart to leave them. AEP must get involved with this orphanage and help these children. It is off to the airport now, to pick up some friends from Cape Town. They are going to Livingston to see the Victoria Falls. After the airport, we go to an ATM so that my friends can get some Kwatcha, the Zambian currency. At this ATM, during the day, every fourth or fifth person who tries to withdraw money will find the machine stuck. It takes about five minutes to fix…frustrating, to say the least. I forgot about this regular problem and of course one of my friends' cards gets stuck…there is no emergency support system to fix the machine and we have to wait until 10 AM the next morning to retrieve the card…Zambia is slow. I love it.
Saturday 31st March
Once we recover the card my friends leave for Livingston. Saturday is relaxing and I spend the afternoon with Kasanda and Langy running a few errands in town. I go to bed early.
Sunday 1st April
Naturally, Sunday is a typical Zambian Sunday. We hang out and relax. The mosquitoes are not nearly as bad as during my last trip and I find myself sleeping in peace this time around. They are biting me, but maybe I am just used to it by now.
Monday 2nd April
It's back to work Monday morning. Before heading to Kafue, we make photocopies of the application forms for the AEP School Sponsorships in Kabulonga. Then Kasanda, Langy, and I are on our way to Kafue. In order for AEP to get a better idea of the needs for school tuition sponsorship in the community, we decided that students could apply for a sponsorship for next school year during two days, today and tomorrow. Once we reach the centre, students are waiting outside ready to start the application process. It is exciting to see how the word has spread about our centre. I also spend time talking to Nahmo, Spender and a new friend, John. After I question them about their term at school, they tell me about their aspirations for the centre. Nahmo is seeking sponsorship for the drama group based at the centre. He decides that the group will perform for me on Friday afternoon. John wants to start a program over their month long vacation. During this time, students will study in the centre in the morning and play sports or do an activity in the afternoon. These guys never stop inspiring me. Later in the afternoon, the "Women on the Move" have a special meeting for me. They make me fritters and Mukoyo drink. The fritters are excellent, but I have trouble swallowing the drink. It tastes like a mix of coffee and lime with chunks of something in it. I do my best. They also show me the clothes that they hand sew and sell at the market. In addition, they display memory books, which they are each writing to recount their family history. These women are incredible, with the little resources that they have they are doing the best they can to provide for their community. Without question, their selfless acts deserve to be rewarded.
Tuesday 3rd April
The trip to Kafue is a huge ordeal. Since we have rented a nine-seat minibus, all the boys in my "family" come along for the ride and to work at the centre. My little "brother" Popo (Amos' younger son), "cousins" John and Swala, Kasanda, Langy and I all pile in. It is still early in the morning. After a "quick," by Zambian standards, breakfast we are off. It never ceases to amaze me, every time I take the road to Kafue, I discover something new…a new village in the bushes or a tree that I did not see before, the landscape seems ever changing. I have taken this road what seems like thousands of times now, but I am never bored with the scenery. Each day brings me a new surprise that I truly live for…a simple smile, or a mud hut, or a group of school children running… It is a good thing that all the boys came to help me. Students are lining up outside the centre to fill out the application. John and Swala are in charge of numbering and organizing the applications, Popo is my clown in residence, who makes sure smiles come out in the pictures that I am taking. Kasanda, Langy, Spender and John are in charge of making sure all questions are answered concerning the application. My boys are tired after a hectic morning and Langy takes them home. Kasanda and I stay behind to do the afternoon shift. I am grateful that fewer students come. But there are more, I am told, coming since some have had exams all day today. I have lunch with Kasanda, Dorcas and Agnes, and we discuss the future of the centre. Everyone is excited about what the simple building is turning into, the lives it is changing and will continue to change.
Wednesday 4th April
Today is my "brother" Kapota's (Amos' older son) eighteenth birthday. In Zambia, this is one of the biggest birthdays, for it marks the entry into adulthood. We drop Kapota off at school on our way to Kafue. The day will be short there because I want to spend the day with Kapota. Popo also comes to Kafue with us. Even at the young age of 11, it means so much to him to see his father's name on the outside of the centre. He enjoys coming and doing work. A few students fill out applications and then we are back on our way to Lusaka. As part of my birthday present to Kapota, I pay for him to get cornrows in his hair. We then go home to the plot for a traditional birthday dinner and cake. In Zambia, whoever's birthday it is, is supposed to feed and be fed cake (using hands) by his or her immediate family. Kapota tells me, "Sister, come here," grabs my arm to pull me closer to partake in this customary event. A tear comes to my eye.
Thursday 5th April
Thursday is another typical day in Kafue. We finish up all of the applications. We also have a board meeting for the administration of the Centre.
Friday 6th April
It is Good Friday and I go to church with my "Uncle" Kenneth in the morning. The service is beautiful as always. The choir's voices echo magnificently through the simple church. The whole service is in Bemba, so I can only catch a few words here and there. I sing along to Amazing Grace and follow the story of Jesus's crucifixion. Then, all of a sudden I hear my name being called, as I am to stand up to be properly greeted as a visitor. I blush and stare at my "uncle" who of course made my presence known to the priest. After church, I organize the last trip to Kafue before heading back to Cape Town the next morning. Instead of it being just Kasanda, Langy, Kapota and I, the trip turns into a "family" event. Fifteen of Amos' brothers, sisters, nephews, nieces, and closest friends want to come along. Everyone is so excited to be at the centre, which is packed with students, children, and members of "Women on the Move". I have never seen so many people in the centre. In that one instant when I walked through the front door, surrounded by my "family" and all of the people that this centre is touching, has made all of the hard work, late nights, long minibus rides…the list could go on…worth it. Nahmo has organized the drama group and they sing magnificently, dance, and perform HIV/AIDS awareness skits for us. Everyone laughs uncontrollably at the jokes and listen attentively while "Uncle" Kenneth speaks to the youth about the importance of HIV/AIDS awareness in their community. The afternoon has been one of my best in Zambia. My love for this place has multiplied ten fold. I say my goodbyes and of course have tears in my eyes. I cannot wait until June. My last night in Lusaka is just like all the others - spent into the early morning hours with "family" and friends.
Saturday 7th April
Tired as can be, I make my way to my 7:30 AM flight. We take off and I, of course, start crying. I am so tired that I fall asleep, eyes wet.
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